Sun hats keep the rain off just as well.

As I was finishing my last post I was feeling pretty cocky, ready for another hot days hiking.

New hat, a buff to protect my neck, one water bottle chilled, one frozen.

I am ready.

And then, as I clicked 'publish' on my last post, a huge thunder storm kicked in. Starting with a change of pressure like a smack in the face, and huge raindrops that sounded like cheap movie rain on my window.

By the following morning the light and noise had moved on, but the rain remained. I left the NOC fairly early to get back on the trail, remembering that the main problem with human settlement is that it takes place in valleys. Five miles up a steep incline later I was feeling OK, a hard climb, but job done. Unfortunately, once I reached the ridge line it got worse. Without the mountain to break the wind, the rain came in horizontally and hit like hail. I dragged myself as far as the shelter at seven miles and stopped to consider my options.

It occurs to me at this point that I've not explained what a shelter is. Throughout the A.T., at seven to ten mile increments, there are shelters. They vary in design, but most are three walled affairs with a slightly raised sleeping platform and a covered area for food prep and shelter. Most nights I'm more comfortable under canvas, but when the weather is foul, I'm really glad of the shelters.

After about 10 minutes in the shelter, my frozen water bottle looking increasingly daft in the cold rain, I decided to call it a day. Sometimes it's important to remember this is a vacation.

It turned into a bit of a party. A great crew, good spirits, terrible singing. (If that version of 'jack and diane' ever ends up on YouTube, I may have to stay in the woods.) It finished with a dramatic reading of Bilbo's party from the beginning of Lord of the Rings, in a thick southern accent.

We closed out well after hiker midnight, almost 9pm.

The following day was perfect, the storm broke during the night and left us with a glorious morning. To make up for the rain shortened day, I put in 21 miles, to Fontana dam.

The combination of the weather and the terrain made this one of the best days hiking yet.

Late in the day, the sun casting long shadows over the hills, the green coming out on the trees. The barren woods finally beginning to get their summer colors. It's beautiful.

That night I teamed up with two other hikers and stayed in the lodge, a hotel / resort. Dinner was probably the best on the trip so far and it lead to a few pints of ale drank in leather chairs.

Sometimes it's important to remember this is a vacation.

T.