Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Smokies to Erwin.

Sorry for leaving it so long between posts, internet can be thin on the ground here.

So, you left me, in Gattlinberg, running for the hills. And that's how it went, I caught a shuttle to Newfound Gap, got there at 3:30, 4 hours of daylight and 10 miles to my preferred shelter. (There was a shelter three miles in, but that's a little over an hour and you'd barely be warmed up.)

Those ten miles are among the prettiest on the trail to date, narrow ridges with the ground falling away steeply on both sides leaving you with views out both sides stretching for over a hundred miles and a slight case of vertigo.

I reached the shelter shortly before dark, it was full but I found somewhere to pitch my tent easily enough and was done with food and camp setup just as light failed.

The following day I decided to push it a little to get to a hostel I thought was at Davenport gap, turns out I was wrong, it was about another two miles, pushing it from a 21 to a 23 mile day. Those last miles hurt.

The hostel was good fun a little more hippy than my taste runs, but indoor food and a bed can't be wrong. From there, great views, a shelter, tent. Great sunset that my photo again fails to do justice. 'Red Sky at Night' lead me astray, in the morning the wind changed and it started pissing rain. I had a fairly short run into town.

Hot Springs is one of two towns that the A.T. runs straight through, no hitching no pickup, just straight to a saloon, rent a room above the bar, and wash the dirt off my back. Today the western feel was completed by my tendency to walk like John Wayne, chafing is the scourge of the trail!

As it had been a while since my zero-mile day at the NOC I decided to hang out in town for a day. That night we found Karaoke, a pool table, and a jukebox, it's not quite all you need for civilization, but it's close!

As a bunch of my friends from the trail were about to get to town I decided to try a thing called a slack-packing.

A Slack-Pack is where you arrange to get a ride somewhere up the trail, and then hike back to town. This allows you hike without most of your pack. The difference between a 5lb and a 25lb pack is hard to fathom, running becomes an option when you're not carrying your house on you back.

That day we slacked 16 miles back to town. Between the slackers, the people who zeroed, and the people who arrived that day we had a big group for dinner. I find my hiking is enhanced greatly by wine, company and steak.

This post is expanding beyond all reasonable scope so I'll speed it up.

From Hot Springs, four days, including the slack to Uncle Johnny's hostel where I arrived last night. Today I did another 21 mile slack, and god does it hurt. Testosterone poisoning, pure and simple, hammering along trying to keep up with fitter guys lead to a limping finish. No damage done, but I may hurt in the morning.

Total mileage : 360.
Still fun. :)

My next planned internet is Damascus, May 1 or 2.

Thanks for listening, sorry this isn't as polished as usual, too much to say too little internet!
T.

Newfound Gap to Pecks Corner Shelter. 10.4
To Waterville School Road, Bear farm hostel. 23.3
To Walnut Mountain Shelter, 20.3.
To Hot Springs, 13.
To Log Cabin Drive, 16.
To Flint Mountain Shelter, 16.
To Bald Mountain Campsite, 19.3
To Nolichucky River (Uncle Johnny's Hostel), 16.5
To Iron Mountain Gap, 20.1.





















6 comments:

  1. Trail friends are awesome and when you said you were after solitude I was wondering how you'd manage that as the man who can't walk down a street in a foreign city without meeting someone you know ;)

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  2. I've been working with hiking mostly on my own and hanging with people at night. (Where night ends at 9pm 'cos we're all exhausted!)

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  3. Fabulous! Love following your journey. And you are shrinking! Maybe you are somehow giving those pounds to me, I am huge! You look great, Tiarnan! Best of luck and enjoy. xxxxx

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  4. March and I live by hiker midnight too, but ours is more properly called "parents of toddler with sleep disorder midnight" Plus I am a wuss in my old age.

    Walking a lot through the mountains every day sounds awesome, but the sleeping on the ground, no showers, I can only assume no coffee... that, not so awesome.

    Maybe I will brave it in my even older age, since it is almost certain M will do it at some point- there has been a lot of hike-envy here.

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  5. Erwin! Did you stay at Miss Janet's? She's the best! What about the AYCE pizza place in Erwin? Eating 32 slices of pizza in a pizza eating contest was one of my favorite memories.

    You've got an awesome pace going! Get ready for the Virginia Blues ;)

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  6. Kristin : The lack of showers is a tad icky, and as I've been foiled in my last two attempts to to get the comforts of town, I'm icky-ier than most. (Two hostels from the books shut this season...) On the other-hand, I just woke up on a lake, surrounded by mountains and clear skies.

    I'll survive!

    Dr. Nick: Miss Janet's is gone! Not sure of the backstory, but she's not running it at the moment. Luckily I did get to meet her and hear some stories in Hiawasse. She's through hiking this year, doing it in sections, out of order so she can get some break from her hiker celebrity status! I went for Mexican rather than pizza, only place in town where you can have a beer with your meal.

    I stayed at Uncle Johnny's Hostel. Great place, probably the best town base of the trip so far.

    OK, the honking of the geese on the lake is getting comical, I guess I'd better get up and get hiking!

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